Jeremy Brown has worked extensively in the London restaurant scene from the Marco Pierre White group to Hotel Café Royal and the Ritz where he was in charge of a mind-boggling 55 chefs. Having been appointed executive chef at Home House back in 2012 he now returns for a second stint, the general idea of which is to riff on seasonal British fare. I had a perfect lunch here back in December (read here) when Brown wasn?t physcially on the premises but had designed the menu. That?s history, now, but happily for the club members, the arrival of Spring brings a new gastronomic experience with equally playful but classic dishes.

The elegant, practically regal, dining room remains unchanged except for the art on the wall; no longer bright and buoyant wildlife but more static abstractions, still bright, but a larger, younger kind of Howard Hodgkin. That said, the art is behind us and to our sides as we?re seated at what must be the most intimate of tables, our backs to the entire restaurant, looking over Marylebone’s serene Portman Square. It?s not quite Central Park but the tall, spindly trees, the grassy square itself, the chinks of office lighting in the distance, conjure it up. Certainly, the classical piano fluttering in the background, the glasses of Möet & Chandon bubbling in the foreground, and the almost full moon outside, all contribute to a private dining experience which feels special and as if it?s straight out of Sex And The City.
I don?...